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Retrofitting metal-halide floodlights to LED: a checklist
What to check on masts, cabling, control and aiming before replacing metal-halide sports floodlights with LED.
Many venues were lit with 1,000–2,000 W metal-halide floodlights. Replacing them with LED is usually straightforward, but a few checks decide whether the retrofit works first time.
1. Structure
LED floodlights are often lighter and smaller than the metal-halide units they replace, but headframes and brackets differ. Confirm the effective projected area and weight per position with the structural engineer, and check bracket compatibility.
2. Cabling and supply
- Voltage at the mast top under load — long cable runs on old installations can drop more than expected.
- Supply type — LED drivers handle a wide input range, but earthing and surge protection should be reviewed.
- Ballast removal — remote control gear boxes for metal-halide can usually be removed, freeing cabinet space for LED drivers or controls.
3. Don't copy the old aiming
A one-for-one swap at the old aiming angles wastes the main benefit of LED: optics. Re-calculate the field with the new luminaires and re-aim every fixture.
4. Controls
Metal-halide lamps need minutes to restrike; LED switches instantly and dims. Use that: programme training, match and maintenance scenes.
5. Verify on site
Measure illuminance on the calculation grid after commissioning, at the same points as the design, and keep the readings as the baseline for future maintenance.
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Keep reading
- EN 12193 illuminance classes explainedWhat Class I, II and III mean in the European sports lighting standard, and how to pick the right class for a venue.
- Glare and spill: keeping sports light where it belongsHow optics, visors, aiming and pole position reduce glare for players and light trespass for neighbours.
- Flicker-free lighting for broadcast and slow motionWhy LED flicker shows up on camera, what flicker metrics mean and what to ask of a driver for televised sport.